FAQs

7 Steps to a Bubble-Free and Flawless Cure

1. The temperature of the workspace, and resin itself, is key. The workspace should be between 72°-85°F, the closer to 78°, the better.

2. If the resin is cool, use a warm bucket of water and place the resin and hardener bottles into the warm water. This will prevent microbubbles. The working time* of the resin mixture will decrease from 45 minutes to 30 minutes. This is because the resin mixture is thermosetting, and with an increased temperature, the curing process will begin sooner than usual. (*Working time is the time you have to mix and pour the resin mixture once the hardener and resin meet in the same cup.)

3. When pouring either the resin or hardener, carefully pour down the side of the measuring cup. Pouring from high above the measuring cup can result in air bubbles.

4. Double check that the resin and hardener are exactly a 1:1 ratio of resin to hardener by volume.

5. When mixing, mix smoothly, thoroughly, and consistently to avoid adding air bubbles. (To avoid adding air to the mixture, press the stirring utensil to the bottom of the cup while mixing.)

6. After the resin and hardener is mixed and poured, wait about two minutes. Then, to remove any air bubbles, use an artist’s torch, kitchen torch, lighter, toothpick, or straw to remove bubbles. (Keep checking over the next 1-2 hours to make sure that additional bubbles do not appear.)

7. Last tip: If the resin and hardener are ever milky or cloudy, this is a good indicator that the temperature of your resin is too low.

The mixing process is tedious, but necessary. Mix consistently for 3-5 minutes. Mix thoroughly, until all streaks of resin have disappeared from the 1:1 resin and hardener mixture.

We recommend a maximum thickness of 1/4” for each layer. If you need to pour several layers for additional thickness, wait for each layer to cure for 6 hours prior to pouring the next coat. Subsequent coats beyond 48 hours require light sanding with 220 grit sandpaper.

When creating with Epoxy Resin, consider these calculations to better determine your measurements.

16 oz coats approximately 3 sq. feet @ 1/16” thick

32 oz coats approximately 6 sq. feet @ 1/16” thick

64 oz coats approximately 12 sq. feet @ 1/16” thick

1 gallon coats approximately 24 sq feet @ 1/16” thick

2 gallon coats approximately 48 sq. feet @ 1/16” thick

Our epoxy resin will harden after 24 hours, but it is not fully cured until 72 hours. Be careful when demolding at 24 hours, because the cast can still be scratched.

Here are a few ways to fix imperfections in cured resin:

1. If the resin is sticky after curing: simply apply a second coating. Double-check the 1:1 ratio of hardener to resin and the temperature of your workspace.

2. If the resin is scratched after curing: wipe down and recoat.

3. If there is a jelly-like residue after curing: carefully scrape off the excess resin that has not cured with a plastic utensil. Then, apply a new layer of the resin and hardener mixture. Remember to mix at a 1:1 ratio and make sure that the temperature in the workspace is 72-85°F (the closer to 78°F the better). You may warm up the resin bottles in a warm water bath to ensure that there are no microbubbles.

4. If there are surface bubbles or debris after curing: sand with 80 grit sandpaper, wipe down, and recoat.

Carefully pull the mold away from each of the sides of the piece before demolding. Pulling the mold off of the edges of the casted piece, first, prevents the silicone mold from sticking to the cast and tearing.

Absolutely! We have had many customers create countertops and bar tops using our resin.

Don’t worry, this is called crystallization and it won’t harm your Epoxy Resin. If your resin is frozen, simply move it into a warmer place and allow it to thaw, or place the bottles in a warm water bath.

The shore hardness value of our epoxy resin after curing is 80-D.

The viscosity of our Clear Casting and Coating Epoxy Resin is 2500 cps which makes it great for doming, as well as coating and casting! Our epoxy resin formula is extremely versatile for many different artistic applications.

The heat deflection temperature of our resin is 105°F. Epoxy Resin is great for use as a coaster but is not recommended for hot coffee cups or for use as hot plates.

*Note: Heat deflection temperature is the temperature at which your epoxy will start to soften (you could dent with your fingernail) but will return to normal once cooled.

Since Art 'N Glow Epoxy Resin heats up as it cures, the most that should be poured at a time, when casting or filling in a void, is 6 ounces. If more is poured in a single layer, there can be issues during the curing process. When coating, the resin will self-level to the point where it is 1/16" thick. We recommend a maximum thickness of 1/4” for each layer. If you need to pour several layers for additional thickness, wait for each layer to cure for 6 hours prior to pouring the next coat. Subsequent coats beyond 48 hours require light sanding with 220 grit sandpaper.

Epoxy Resin is self-leveling to some extent, but use a level to be sure that the surface is even, so that your coat distributes evenly. You may also use your hand (while wearing gloves), a brush, or a plastic spreader to help the resin reach all edges and corners.

Yes, Epoxy Resin will self-level to an extent. However, it is best to use your hands (while wearing gloves) to properly spread the resin across your piece to ensure that the resin spreads to all corners.

Epoxy Resin can easily be colored with our wide variety of pigment powders. We typically recommend approximately 7 grams of glow powder for each fluid ounce of resin and hardener mixture. This ratio is designed to give your resin piece the brightest and longest-lasting glow. However, there is room for experimentation if you wish to use more or less glow powder.

Epoxy resin cures to a hardness of 80+ Shore D in 72 hours. Our resin is very strong once cured. The resin will be heat-resistant, difficult to scratch, and tough to break.

Epoxy Resin works great with several mediums. Our resin will adhere to wood, canvas, aluminum, inkjet prints, glossy photographs, oil paint, sculpture, leaves, rocks, brick, concrete, and much more! There are only a few materials that the resin will not adhere to. For example, the resin won’t adhere to materials like silicone, the backside of tape, plastic tarps, and wax paper. Silicone is often used to cast resin, and wax paper is used to protect a workspace. Resin also will not adhere to a majority of surfaces that are water resistant.

Absolutely! Epoxy Resin can be used to coat leaves, rocks, wood, fruit, and even chicken nuggets! When casting any organic material, make sure to apply one layer at a time, waiting 6 hours between applying additional layers. When casting objects in a mold with resin, they may sink or float. Try using toothpicks, tape, or upside down cups to hold what you are casting in place as you apply the first couple of layers.

Epoxy Resin will not crack when cured properly. Epoxy Resin solidifies to be hard as rock.

Our Clear Casting and Coating Epoxy Resin is certified as food-safe according to FDA standards - it is made in compliance with FDA regulations (CFR 21 175.300) and found to be completely safe for repeated, direct contact with food and food products.

Yes, after Epoxy Resin is fully cured, it is totally waterproof.

No, our resin does not visibly shrink or expand while curing. The technical Shrinkage value is .001.

Using a sealant is only necessary when the material being casted is highly-absorbent or porous. Paper, cardboard, fruit, and leaves are all examples of materials that should be sealed. Sealing materials like these helps to avoid bubbles being released after being coated.

Glue sticks are a great resource that seem elementary, but are actually very useful when working with resin. Since glue sticks contain minimal water, there is less of a chance of the glue causing your paper to ripple. Glue down any thin material with a glue stick, and then pour away.

The shelf life of our epoxy resin is approximately 12 months unopened and 6 months opened.

1. Before starting, take note of the room temperature. An ideal work space temperature is 72-85°F, (the closer to 78 the better). If the resin and hardener bottles are stored in a cool place, warm them in a warm water bath. Warming the resin will shorten working time* from 45 to 30 minutes. (*Working time is the time you have to mix and pour the resin mixture once the hardener and resin meet in the same cup.)

2. Start with a 1:1 mixing ratio of resin to hardener. Pour down the side of the cup to avoid adding bubbles.

3. Mix the resin and hardener with a stirring utensil for 3-5 minutes. Mix smoothly and thoroughly to avoid adding bubbles. Mix until all streaks of resin are gone and the mixture is clear.

4. Add pigment powder or keep it clear. If you decide to add pigment powder, mix 1:4 glow powder to resin. Mix for about 1-2 minutes, until all small grains of powder are mixed thoroughly. Avoid large clumps of powder by mixing in small amounts of powder at a time.

5. To make sure that there are no divots left by bubbles in the casted piece, paint a small layer of resin mixture into the edges and all intricacies of the silicone mold. This will ensure a great final product.

6. After painting on the resin mixture, pour the mixture into the mold.

7. Cover the mold and allow the resin to cure for at least 24 hours before demolding. At 24 hours, the resin is semi-cured. It will be fully-cured after 72 hours. At 24 hours, the resin is hardened enough to demold, but can still be scratched.

8. To demold, carefully pull the mold from each of the sides to help release the resin piece from the mold. Pulling the mold off the edges of the casted piece, first, prevents the silicone mold from sticking to the cast and tearing.

Temperature is a very important part of resin-curing and preventing bubbles from showing up after resin has cured. If the temperature in the workspace is in the lower 70’s (°F), then use a warm water bath for the resin and hardener bottles. Using a warm water bath will help to bring the resin to the optimal temperature for resin to cure, and helps prevent micro-bubbles. However, be aware that by warming the resin, you will shorten the working time* of the resin mixture from 45-minutes to about 30 minutes. Also, make sure to dry the bottles to prevent even a drop of water into your resin mixture. Water will prevent the resin from curing properly. (*Working time is the time you have to mix and pour the resin mixture once the hardener and resin meet in the same cup.)

A heat gun or torch, or another method of removing bubbles, is recommended. Using some sort of heat after applying resin is a very effective method.The reason that many artists use a torch is because a torch is much more directional, and helps to burn off any unwanted particles that may have made their way onto the surface of the resin. Be sure to exercise caution when using a torch. Be conscious of your surroundings and remember that a torch is not a toy.

First, make sure that the piece is on a level surface. If the piece being coated has a curved surface, use a foam brush or gloves to spread thin layers of resin. Wait 6 hours between each layer, and add additional layers until the surface is at the desired thickness.

Make sure to cover your art with a box once you have finished coating it. This helps make sure that no stray dust particles or debris stick to your resin piece.

There are several ways to pop bubbles. Many artists go over each coat with a kitchen torch, lighter, or heat gun. You can also use a toothpick to pop the bubbles, or even try blowing through a straw, but be sure not to inhale.

It is very important to allow each layer to reach a somewhat solidified state, but not allowing it to become completely solidified, before applying a second or third layer of resin. The optimal time to add additional layers is 6 hours after applying the previous layer. Another important point is to make sure that each layer should be no more than a 1/4” thickness. As you apply each layer, be sure to remove bubbles with a torch, toothpicks, or by blowing through a straw (but be sure not to inhale!) Subsequent coats beyond 48 hours require light sanding with 220 grit sandpaper.

How long does Epoxy Resin take to cure?

Our epoxy resin will harden after 24 hours, but it is not fully cured until 72 hours. Be careful when demolding at 24 hours, because the cast can still be scratched.

The best way to thin epoxy resin is to place both, the hardener and resin bottles, in a tub or bucket of warm water. The warm water bath will cause the resin and hardener, once mixed, to cure faster. Keep in mind that the work time, once the resin and hardener meet in the same cup, will change from 45 minutes to 30 minutes. Adding additional liquids to thin out the epoxy resin will prevent the resin mixture from curing properly.

There are several ways to finish edges. To ensure a clean edge, use the back of painters tape on the edges of the canvas to create an outline. Another approach would be to pour the resin in the center of the canvas, and use your hands (wearing gloves) to ensure that all edges are coated.

Epoxy Resin dries faster with more heat, since Epoxy Resin is thermosetting. Place the resin and hardener bottles in a bucket of warm water to help increase the initial temperature before you begin mixing.

A good place to start is making sure that your piece is level, so that the resin mixture spreads evenly across the surface. Then, start pouring in the center, and use a spreading tool, or something like a plastic card, to spread the resin. You may use your hands (while wearing gloves) to spread the resin, as well. Make sure to spread evenly, reaching all corners and edges. If you are on an even surface, resin is self-leveling, but may need some assistance in order to reach the corners and edges.

Resin often pours over the edges of a canvas, so using some kind of stand will help to keep the piece from sticking to your workspace, after curing. Anything you can find to keep your canvas above your workspace will work. We recommend placing your canvas on a few cups or sticking thumb tacks into back of the canvas, in each corner, in order raise the canvas above the workspace.

There are a few essential steps to preparing a surface so that your project goes well. Make sure that there is no dust or debris on your surface. Ensure that your surface is level, so that the resin does not flow to one side. Also, if you are using a canvas, it may be a good idea to add small pieces of wood under each corner, between the frame and the canvas. This increases surface tension, and should prevent the canvas from dipping in the center.

The key to creating a clean and easy to manage workspace is to plan ahead. Have several pairs of gloves, plenty of towels, rubbing alcohol, and soap ready to go!

If you need to pour several layers for additional thickness, wait for each layer to cure for 6 hours prior to pouring the next coat. Subsequent coats beyond 48 hours require light sanding with 220 grit sandpaper.

To dam Epoxy Resin, use waterproof materials like silicone, plastic, plexiglass, hot glue, or the back of painters tape.

The mixing process is tedious, but necessary. Mix consistently for 3-5 minutes. Mix thoroughly, until all streaks of resin have disappeared from the 1:1 resin and hardener mixture.

To clean Epoxy Resin, use a glass cleaner!

Epoxy Resin can work with several different mediums, but surfaces like wood and metal work best. Since Art ‘N Glow Epoxy Resin has weight to it, canvases may dip in the middle if not properly prepared before the pour. When using a canvas, try adding small pieces of wood between the canvas and the frame to add tension to the canvas surface.

Wood panels are actually the best way to apply resin. When using canvas, there is a possibility of the canvas dipping in the middle when pouring resin. Wood allows for an even surface to work on, giving consistency to the art piece.

Epoxy Resin can be added to paper. Our epoxy resin will not soak into paper, but may cause ink to show up a bit darker. When applying resin, glossy printer paper works best, because the glossy texture helps to prevent the paper from absorbing the resin. To be sure of the effect, try a test run or using a sealant similar to Mod Podge.

Epoxy Resin works great with aluminum, give it a shot!

Wood projects are ideal for resin. Epoxy resin seals the wood and brings out the natural colors and grain of the wood.

Yes, using glossy paper works best for this application.

Our epoxy resin will adhere to an oil painting, just be sure that the oil painting has fully dried.

Absolutely! Simply coat your piece with a thin layer of resin as a finishing touch.

Absolutely, our epoxy resin will adhere to fabric. It will make the fabric very hard after the resin cures.

Epoxy Resin will adhere to polymer clay, and can be used to coat a small sculpture. When coating a large sculpture, make sure to apply in layers. Epoxy Resin heats up as it solidifies. Using more than a 1/4” layer or 6 oz in one pour may prevent the resin from curing properly.

Absolutely! Our epoxy resin is waterproof once fully hardened. After at least three full days, the resin will be fully cured and will not harm aquatic life.

Yes, Epoxy Resin can cover gold leaf.

Yes, Epoxy Resin will adhere to ceramic.

Yes, when coating sculptures, consider using a foam brush to apply thin layers of resin.

Absolutely, we have had many customers create countertops and bar tops.

Absolutely! Epoxy Resin makes for a great way to top a guitar. Consider pouring in thin layers to have total control over each layer. Also keep in mind how the resin pours over the edges. It may be beneficial to hang the guitar by the neck so that the resin pours to the bottom of the body, where the strap pin hole will be drilled.

Epoxy Resin works on both glass and tile. You can even cover any sharp edges with epoxy resin, creating a protective coating.

Resin can be used in jewelry silicone molds to cast everything from earrings to pendants. Add any of our pigments, flowers or glitter to customize your jewelry piece.

Depending on the size and shape of the piece, a sander or hand-planer will help level the resin coating. After sanding, wipe down with a damp cloth and apply a new layer of resin.

It is possible to over-torch. Torch swiftly and evenly across the surface to avoid over-torching.

Dimples are a sign of microbubbles. One way to avoid microbubbles is to warm the resin and hardener bottles in a warm water bath. Keep in mind that warming the resin bottles will lower the working time of the resin from 45 minutes to 30 minutes. Work time begins once the resin and hardener meet in the same cup. Once the resin is poured, make sure to go over the pour with a torch. As a final tip, thoroughly dry the bottles after a water bath so that water does not enter the resin mixture. Water will prevent the resin from curing properly.

The temperature of the workspace, and resin itself, is key. The workspace should be between 72-85°F, the closer to 78°F, the better. If the resin is cool, use a warm bucket of water and place the resin and hardener bottles into the warm water. This will prevent microbubbles. The work time of the resin mixture will go from 45 minutes to 30 minutes. Work time begins once the resin and hardener meet in the same cup. Once the resin is poured, make sure to go over the pour with a torch. Make sure to dry the bottles after a water bath so that water does not enter the resin mixture. Water will prevent the resin from curing properly.

Make sure that the resin and hardener have been mixed together for 3-5 minutes. Also, be sure that the resin is mixed and poured within the 45-minute working time, which starts as soon as the hardener touches the resin in the same mixing cup. Pouring after working time is often the cause of streaks or lines in cured resin.

A second coating of Epoxy Resin will cover any scratches. Make sure to thoroughly wipe down with a damp cloth before adding additional layers.

Here are a few ways to fix imperfections in resin:

1. If the resin is sticky after curing: simply apply a second coating. Double-check the 1:1 ratio of hardener to resin and the temperature of your workspace.

2. If the resin is scratched after curing: wipe down and recoat.

3. If there is a jelly-like residue after curing: carefully scrape off the excess resin that has not cured with a plastic utensil. Then, apply a new layer of the resin and hardener mixture. Remember to mix at a 1:1 ratio and make sure that the temperature in the workspace is 72-85°F (The closer to 78°F the better). You may warm up the resin in a warm water bath to ensure that there are no microbubbles.

4. If there are surface bubbles or debris after curing: sand with 80 grit sandpaper, wipe down, and recoat.

The best way to fix a jelly-like consistency left over after curing is to scrape off the excess resin that has not cured. Then, apply a new layer that is perfectly mixed with a 1:1 ratio of resin and hardener.

Double check that the workspace temperature is 72-85°F (The closer to 78°F the better). Check the resin storage temperature, if the bottles are cool, use a warm water bath to raise the bottle temperature. Lastly, be precise with the 1:1 ratio of resin to hardener.

A common practice when applying resin to canvas is to insert small pieces of wood to the corners of the frame, between the canvas and the frame, to increase the surface tension.

Another approach is to apply a thin layer of resin mixture with a sponge brush to help stiffen the canvas. Once the first layer has cured, apply additional layers to reach the desired thickness.

Bubbles do pop on their own, but bubbles can cause small cavities on the surface of the coated piece. Achieve a clear, glass-like finish by using a torch after applying each resin coat. Wait about 2 minutes after each pour. Then use a torch to remove bubbles. Keep an eye on the piece for the next couple of hours, because bubbles may continue to rise.

After resin has been poured, bubbles will form up to an hour after. Use a torch, toothpicks, or even blow through a straw (but be careful not to inhale!), to remove these bubbles. An artist’s torch is the preferred source of heat to remove bubbles after a pour, because it is very precise.

All epoxy resin formulas will yellow over time with direct exposure to sunlight, however, our formula contains both HALS and UV stabilizers for superior protection against yellowing caused by UV rays.

Also, all resin systems will yellow if left in the bottle for too long as they interact with oxygen. Our resin will stay crystal clear in the bottles for at least 6 months. We recommend you buy no more resin than you expect to use in 6 months to ensure it is crystal clear when you use it.

Absolutely, just sand down the entire piece with 80 grit sandpaper, wipe it down with a damp cloth, repour the resin mixture, and then torch!

Epoxy Resin is thermosetting, meaning that it heats up as it cures. This is totally normal, and is the reason why, when pouring in high volumes, resin should be poured in thin 1/4” layers, or a 6 oz pour.